Anonymous asked: Hi, I recently came across brands that now sell raw denim that has been washed once. Would these kind of raws still get the same fades and contrast with daily wear??

They would not get the same kinds of fades and contrasts as raw, unwashed denim. Actually, it shouldn’t even be called raw denim if it has already been washed! They will still fade, but not as much as unwashed denim. When the denim is washed, the water takes out all the starch which is why the washed denim is very soft. Without the starch, you can’t set in creases and folds as well and the denim won’t experience as much abrasion.

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Anonymous asked: Is there any denim that comes with a 32" waist, 32-34" inseam, and ~6.5" opening, or am I stuck always getting my jeans altered as soon as I get them?

Most of the time you will have to get them altered. The jeans manufacturers cannot accommodate every single body type unfortunately so the fits must appeal to multiple body types at once!

Nudie High Kai has a 6.5 leg opening on a 32 waist. It’s a unisex jean.

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Anonymous asked: i wear levis 513's(but hate the stretchy thing happening now) would an apc or unbranded have a similar fit? With a slimmer leg opening would be awesome.

Unbranded Tapered and the APC New Standard would be the closest fits.

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Anonymous asked: I'm thinking about getting my jeans tapered again from mid-calf down because it bothers me how loose they are around shoes, especially high tops. I've got some stacking going on, do you think they'll set okay after they get altered again or should I just let them be?

They should be OK. They’ll form to your body as long as you keep wearing them.

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Anonymous asked: Can you recommend any black denim jeans for a skinny male? I currently own a pair of APC's New Cure in Size 28 and in my opinion, they could be a bit tighter.

Rogue Territory Black SK

Black Nudies Thin Finn

Naked & Famous Skinny Guy in Black Power Stretch

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Anonymous asked: What is the difference between raw denim and raw selvedge denim? I have a pair of the Williamsburg Garment Districts Grand Street's and I love them, especially for the more than reasonable price point. I've had them for 6-7 months and finally realized they were raw, not raw selvedge. Do both types of denim age / fade similarly?

It’s tough to tell you the difference between the two general fabrics. Every denim is different. You can have good quality, non-selvedge denim and bad quality selvedge denim. A selvedge denim jean will usually have the selvedge ticker on the outseam:

The selvedge usually means the denim was woven on an old-school shuttle loom. This gives the denim some irregularities and imperfections that contribute to the way it fades. It’s how jeans were made originally and is a homage to past production and quality.

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Anonymous asked: How is the sizing of April 77 Raw's? Should I go one size down?

Recommended to size down 1

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Anonymous asked: I read you blog too often and my girlfriend thinks I'm ill. OK, I bought a pair of Unbranded skinny fit 14oz. The supplier here in the UK said to size up, so I did. I like them, but they're way too long so I'm double cuffing. However, I'd like to get them hemmed and potentially tapered by my tailor. When I do finally wash them, how much shrinkage can I expect, or should I try to wait until after I have washed them to get them altered? Can they be tapered and keep the selvedge? Thanks!

We are all ill! The jeans are sanforized which means almost all the shrinkage and stretch has been removed. When you wash them, they will shrink a little bit depending on the temperature of the water (hot = more shrinkage, cold = less shrinkage). Even with shrinkage, the jeans will eventually stretch back out to how it fits now. It’ll stretch more in the waist but it might not stretch back length-wise because there is not as much tension vertically as there is horizontally. Your safest option is to wash before the alteration.

As for tapering, it is possible to taper them and keep the selvedge outseam. Tell your tailor that you want the jeans to be tapered from the inseam, NOT the outseam. Show them so they completely understand! By tapering from the inseam, the outseam is not touched and won’t be widened by the tapering. However, the tailor may be limited to the amount they are able to cut down the jeans from the inseam.

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Anonymous asked: What are some good belts/brands that i can get it vancouver? And where are places in vancouver for tanner goods wallets and belts?

Not much selection in Vancouver.

Mr. Lee’s General Store closed down. I’m not 100% sure but Club Monaco on Robson St. may have Tanner Goods accessories.

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blvkee asked: Hey I wandering if you guys could post the direction and materials needed to make the home made leather wallet and the leather belt. Thanks so much

Here is a great leather wallet instructional by Art of Manliness. You can get some ideas of how to make your own wallet there. Also, lots of DIY videos on YouTube.

You can find materials at a nearby leather store/factory.

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Anonymous asked: I just got a pair 3sixteen ST-100x and i love the fit. Any suggestions for raw denims with a similar cut and sizing?

ST-100X is a slim tapered pair. Look into the Baldwin Henley, Tellason Ladbroke Grove, APC Petit New Standard, Naked & Famous Weird Guy

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Anonymous asked: new to the site I'm impressed very informative had a quick question. what is the difference between apc petit standards and their petit new standard? I'm looking to buy another pair of petit standards but I want the fit that's the slimmest/skinniest.

How does the petit new standard differ from the petit standard?

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Jeans from Jonas Dees

Levi’s 1954 501Z

Felt like sharing my Levi’s 1954 501Z that I bought from Context Clothing in Madison roughly 2 1/2 years ago. I have a job that isn’t denim friendly so these have typically been worn only on the weekends during that time. 1 initial soak before wearing and 1 wash so far. Obviously they are in need of a pretty serious wash after being worn while I do renovations/improvements to my house. (permalink -

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Thank you to the anon who submitted!

SEXI 14 @ 18months old, countless washes & rain-soaks 



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BIG JOHN M1 Gunjo - ~1 yr, no washes/soaks

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